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Using the scallion oil and beet-juice caramel from the night before, my husband whipped together a satisfying and memorable dinner. I was worried we wouldn't get to use the leftovers of those two heavenly sauces – boy was I wrong.
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Post Food
I entered the front door of Atelier with pre-conceptions. I left with an appreciation for food that I haven’t had in quite a while. Having eaten at Craft in NYC and George in Toronto – both small plates concept establishments, although not necessarily billed as “molecular gastronomy” — I would have to say that Atelier can easily run with those dogs. Ottawans have a habit of seeing the far away fields as greener, of not seeing the talent that we have close to home, of playing the small town card. But the truth is, our city is coming into its own in more ways than just food, and we need to embrace and nurture our home grown creativity.
The front of house experience was great. Low key but sharp and professional. The room is definitely a secondary player to the food, which it should be, however I did find it a bit sterile – perhaps my only criticism. The sommelier was informative and creative without being pompous, and the pairings were bang on. One of the choices was St. Peter’s Organic English Ale – which I typically don’t like (maybe just because I’m Irish). But it played perfectly with the sweetness of the Southern Comfort dish – beautiful.
Rachelle has given a detailed breakdown of what we ate and drank so you don’t need to hear it again from me. What I will say though is that we had a surprising amount of what I wasn’t expecting – food. We ate a ton. The dishes were complex and creative, each building on their own theme. Soup-er Bowl for example. The most tender and succulent chorizo I have ever tasted, in a broth resembling a fine corn chowder, with anti-griddled cheese puffs made to look like pop-corn. Some of the dishes were very brief, others were actually quite substantial, all were highly creative, multi-sensory and delicious.
Anything other than a glowing recommendation of Atelier would, in my mind, be grossly unfair. Yes there were anti-griddles and foams, yes there was an immersion circulator, yes there was a bit of science. But not too much. Really it was just about great food.
I would eat my words if I wasn’t so full.
Pre Food
There was a time, not that long ago in our existence, when food meant sustenance, it meant nutrition, it meant survival. There was also a time when everything we ate we hunted or gathered ourselves. We ate, we sustained, we survived – simple.
Then, one day, we noticed that the guy 2 caves down had some yummy looking ungulate hanging outside his front stoop. And he noticed that we had some very tasty yak entrails that we weren’t using – and so, commerce was born.
Well now, in the developed world, our concept and value of food has evolved so far from any notion of nutrition or survival, that we take it for granted. Of course the supermarket will have papayas. Of course I can buy a kilo of beef for 6 bucks. Of course I can get cucumbers in February. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m no food Trotsky — we had a whole roast piglet at our open house last week, so I’m as guilty as anyone. But the point is, as a society, when our relationship with food evolves to the point of a $500 hamburger – we need to sit down and give ourselves a bit of a talking too. Food is no longer about food. It has become theatre, entertainment, an outlet for artistic expression, a fashion accessory. Putting vittles in your belly to get you through the day is for losers — I’m exaggerating for effect of course.
So all of this rambling is really just a way of voicing my slight discomfort with the idea of where I’m going to dinner on Friday. Cathy and Rachelle suggested we go to Atelier on Rochester. As you might know, Atelier is Ottawa’s own iteration of the food movement known as molecular gastronomy, a concept most recently made famous by Ferran Adria with his Catalan restaurant El Bulli. The idea behind molecular gastronomy is to (allegedly) challenge ones ideas of what food is and how we experience it, using chemical and scientific processes to transform ingredients rather than ‘cook’ or ‘prepare’ them. Now to be honest, I have never eaten at a molecular gastronomy restaurant, I’ve only seen it on the tube and read about it, and all these opinions, notions, right or wrong are just that – opinions.
And that’s exactly why Rachelle asked me to write about it. To compare the pre-conceived notion of molecular gastronomy to the actual experience of consuming it. I have no doubt that the Atelier people will put on a great show, and maybe they’ll change my mind. I will probably be proven wrong, and we will probably have a very memorable experience. But I may still grab a sandwich at Dirienzo’s first.
Talk to you after dessert.
Do you think we’ll get dessert?